Take a look at the materials available here. Recently a customer called to say his exhaust had got louder and the inlet and body of the exhaust were badly discoloured. It turns out he had been running his bike for over 4 years without ever repacking his exhaust. This guy covers some miles too!
He sent it back for a repack and decided to get it all media blasted at the same time to give it a new lease of life. As you can see in the images below, there was virtually zero packing material left in the silencer. As our customer had been running the bike with the muffler like this for some time, the exhaust parts and link pipe had started to badly tarnish and burn.
The silicone rubber strap on the mounting bracket had got so hot that the rubber had glued itself to the inside of the strap. We took the exhaust apart, media blasted all the parts and provided a new strip of rubber for the bracket. The exhaust was packed with new material and rebuilt. If you want to get your Fuel Exhaust repacked and possibly even given a new media blast finish, get in touch for further details or to book in.
You can contact us via email, Facebook Messenger or by telephoning the office during normal weekday working hours on UK road legal with removable baffle. British made with lifetime guarantee. You need to perform muffler surgery, but before you remove anything, take a look at your muffler.
Many are held together with rivets. Not everything uses rivets, though. The silencer I am repacking in the photos belongs to one of our dirt riders here at RevZilla. Note that the silencer is actually held together with a pair of bolts to make repacking easy. FMF does this on many of their mufflers, as well. Some have an end cap that removes from the outlet, and some are from the inlet or stinger end.
Most units will require one cap to be removed, but not both. Bolts make this job a little easier. Cobra does something similar on some of its fiberglass-packed cruiser exhausts: the baffles are held in with a set screw. First, you want to put on gloves.
Trust me on this. Next, put on gloves. Latex, work gloves, whatever. Fiberglass literally contains microscopic pieces of glass. Gloves are your friend. Change them early and often.
After that, disassemble this baby. Yank your spark arrestor or dB killer if you have either. Unbolt the baffle or end cap if you have bolts, or remove the rivet heads if the muffler is riveted.
The best way to do this, in my opinion, is to drill the center of the rivet, and then carefully shear the exposed head with a hammer and cold chisel. Stepping up the drill size progressively can help get the rivets loose enough to work them free without damaging the exterior of the muffler. The next step is separating the core from the body.
They fit together like two concentric tubes. Break the seal of silicone around the end cap. Gentle probing with an appropriate tool to break the seal picks and razor blades come in handy here is a great starting point. If yours is super-stuck, you can skip to the next step, remove the packing, and then slide a piece of PVC pipe that fits over the core but inside the body, and beat on it gently. I placed the body in the vice using soft jaws and got out a plastic mallet.
Wrestle the core out of the body. Greasy trash. Also, you can see well used muffler packing. This shot of the end of the packing material shows how saturated it had become.
Had this been a four-stroke muffler, the packing would likely be far more blown out and burnt. Interestingly, when I handed this back to the owner, he said, "It's pounds lighter! Degrease and wipe down your 2T silencer, or use a wire brush to knock off the dry carbon and any other accumulation on a 4T muffler. A couple quick swipes with a wire brush helps remove the residual silicone used to seal the inlet cap used in the last repack.
Once the core is good and clean, give it a good inspection to make sure any welds are still in good shape. As long as it's out, cleaning oil residue from the core is a good idea. There's no point saturating new fiberglass prematurely. I cleaned up the body, too. Heck, if you want to get really crazy and polish it or something, this is probably the most convenient time to do it.
They all work fine. Installation is the difference, really. When I was a kid, my first repack job was using the bulk stuff. I bought it because it was cheap, and found that packing a muffler took approximately forever. Measure the packing length relative to the core. So my first tip is this: Use sheet packing instead of loose packing if you can get it. My second tip: If you have to use the bulk stuff, a broomstick or other dowel is helpful for ramming that fiberglass into the can.
If you pack this way, pack tighter at the inlet and looser at the outlet, because the exhaust is hottest and moving fastest there. Trim it. I usually roll the core up in the sheet, trimming it if it overhangs egregiously. I roll it pretty damn tight, then hold it in place using a few turns of masking tape. Roll it up. You're looking for the sweet spot between "don't split the burrito tortilla" and "gotta fit this sleeping bag into the stuff sack.
Tape it all down to ease the reinstallation. Masking tape is usually what I use because it burns off quickly.
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